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Sports & Outdoors

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Size Matters A Lot

Corky Carroll

With springtime coming on us here in Southern California, the time to go surfing is here.  This time of year can bring surf of all sizes, ranging from small easy waves to huge ponders.  People always ask me what is the best size wave to surf.  The answer all depends on the surfer.

Lets start with beginners.  They don’t want waves very big.  Nice little mushburgers are perfect.  Mushburgers are waves that are sort of flat and mushy, they don’t break very hard.  But the term “little” can be slightly deceiving.  You don’t want it so small that the waves have no push to them.  Beginners tend to think a two foot wave is really twenty feet and it is hard to convince them that a wave with a little power to it is easier to ride because it will make them go faster.  Going faster makes the board more stable and therefore is actually easier to ride. 

Then you have your intermediates.  This is an enormous group and has many different varieties.  For the most part you would have to say that small to medium size surf would be best for them.  Much of it would have to do with water experience and confidence.

Then you have good surfers.  This is where it gets sort of weird to answer this question.  Different surfers have different preferences as to the size and structure of waves that they like best.  You have guys like Laird Hamilton who like it bigger the better and bring on the juice no matter what without fear or regard to life and limb.  Then there are guys like former champion Gary Proper and others who are great surfers who prefer small to midsize waves.

My personal preference are waves that have faces on them that range from eight to twenty feet.  For me, this is a size range that produces plenty of power and speed and is exciting enough to satisfy what’s left of my thirst for thrills.  But it is not into that range that could be fatal for a fat dude over fifty.

Corky Carroll: Five-time US Overall Surfing champion.  Three-time International Surfing champion.  International Big Wave champion.  World Small Wave champion.  Named Best Surfer in the World in 1968 by Surfer Magazine poll.  Miller Lite All Star.  And voice of Grubby Grouper on Spongebob Squarepants.

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